Walking Tour and Sun

Tuesday October 25 was a sunny, very warm 24C.  We had wanted to take the "Free" Walking Tour of the city on Monday, but Guru Walks don't walk on Mondays, so we booked a tour on Tuesday.  Our guide, Jason, was born in Michigan, but has lived in Bologna for over 30 years (most likely moved back here with his family (Italian surname) as he talked about his mother living in the city).  He is very knowledgeable about Bologna's history and a good story-teller.

We started in Piazza Maggiore, with some of the tales we had heard already.  It is important to remember that Bologna was part of the Vatican State for many years, and thus ruled by the Popes.  Cardinal Legate Charles Borromeo commissioned the Neptune Fountain to symbolise the election of Borromeo's uncle as Pope Pius IV.  The statute of Neptune is seen stretching his left hand, appearing to placate the waves.  This posture has been interpreted as a symbolic exaltation of the new power of Pope Pius IV.  Just as Neptune was the master of the seas, the Pope was the master of Bologna.

There are lots of stories about how the statue has a small penis when looked at from the front and a larger one when looked at from a certain angle from his back (the sculptor's joke).  Also the four Nereids are erotically posed holding their breasts, from which jets of water emerge.   

Neptune statue from the front

From the back

Jason then talked about the white marks in one of the walls of what is now City Hall.  Apparently, there was a textile and food market that took place in part of the Piazza and as most people were illiterate, the white lines would be used as an indication of the quantity of textiles they wanted to purchase.  The square indentation was used as a facsimile measurement for how much fruit or vegetables people wanted.

Medieval measurements

Palazzo D'Accursio, now the Town Hall with statue of a Pope in the centre 

Across the square was the Palazzo dei Banchi, the last building erected in the square.  Amazingly, it is in reality an impressive facade created to hide the back alleys of the Quadrilatero (where all the small delis and fruit stands are today) that are just behind the building.  In fact, what looks like apartments on the upper floor are too narrow to be inhabited and are just used as storage for the stores below.

Palazzo dei Banchi (second half of 16th century)

Jason filled us in a bit more with the history of the Basilica of San Petronio.  It was originally going to be in the shape of the huge cross.  Construction began in 1390 and works lasted for several centuries.  However, Pope Pius IV halted the building of the Basilica as he would not let it be larger that the Basilica in Rome.  Since that time, no one has stepped up with the funds to complete the facade.  Jason pointed out that the workers had just started a row of marble (see the left side) when they were ordered to halt.  

Of course, now it is visited because of the fact that it is uncompleted but very imposing.  Better left unfinished!

Basilica of San Petronio (named after Bologna's patron Saint)

The left side of the Basilica-- uncompleted

The Pope also ordered the building of what is now the Palazzo dell Archiginnasio which was the first building of the University of Bologna.  It is very close to the Basilica so there is no room to expand it.

We walked across the square from the Basilica to the Palazzo Re Enzo and Palazzo del Podestà.  

Palazzo Re Enzo

The Palazzo Re Enzo (built between 1244-1246) takes its name from Enzo of Sardinia, prisoner of the Battle of Fossalta, and Frederick II's son.  Enzo was a prisoner in this building from 1249 until his death in 1272.  Apparently, he was allowed to live freely and entertain, but could not leave the building.

On the ceiling of the open arcade between the two buildings are two pieces of wood in the ceiling that were used for hanging people.  

Where people were hung

There also is what is called a whispering gallery, where if one person whispers facing one of the four corners of the arch, they will be heard by anyone who is at the diagonally opposite corner.  We had tried this the night of our food tour and we tried it again.  It works and was used a lot in previous centuries to communicate secrets.

Checking out the whispering gallery

We walked to the Via dell' Archiginnasio, just beside the Basilica San Petronio, with its beautiful Portico del Pavaglione housing some of the most exclusive shops in Bologna.

Definitely one of the most beautifully decorated porticoes in the city

Jason told us that there wee no strict rules for the design of the porticoes, so some have vaulted ceilings and others have square ceilings; some are plain and others decorated.

We walked by the Museo Civico Archeologico and then went into the courtyard of the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio, the first seat of the University of Bologna.  Jason explained that originally the "university" consisted of students meeting up with various scholars to discuss topics.  Often these meetings were held outside.  Eventually, the building was erected in  1562-1563.   There is a Teatro Anatomico (Anatomical theatre) where anatomy lessons were once held.  One can visit the Teatro-- it is in a theatre shape where students sit in higher seats above an "operating theatre" where the lessons take place.  Still a model used in medical schools today.  In 1803, the building ceased to function as part of the university.  It is now a library and a museum.

 

Courtyard

Side view

First seat of the University

         View from the entry to the courtyard

Beautiful ceilings

We carried on walking through the Portico del Pavaglione.  Jason pointed out that the ceilings had family crests from various noble families who either lived in the apartments or financed the buildings.

Noble family crests on the ceilings

We then went down a street where Jason quizzed us on what we thought the metal pieces that were sticking out of the wall were used for.  Someone guessed they might have been used to tie up horses.  Jason said that the street we were on was once part of a system of canals that ran through the city.  The metal pieces are where boats used to be moored!!  There is still one small canal that runs through the city, that we saw on our food tour.  However, it was dry at this time of the year.

Boat mooring posts

We passed a garage like structure in a large building. There was a plaque on the wall that said that the Maserati family founded the car company in this building on December 1, 1914.  The plaque was placed there in 2014 in the year of the Centennial of Maserati.  Bologna is the home of Maserati and Lamborghini (the latter founded in 1963).

Building where Maseratis used to be built

Plaque re the founding of Maserati cars

We went to Piazza Santo Stefano, one of the nicest Piazzas in the city.  It is the home of the "Seven 

Churches" of which four remain. The seven church were erected in different eras.  The complex dates back to the 5th century, though our guide said that the oldest church dated back to around 200 AD.  Three of the churches were destroyed by fire or earthquakes.

View of the four remaining churches 

The oldest church

The inside of one of the newer churches

The oldest church- Santi Vitale and Agricola

The Church of Holy Sepulcher dates back to the fifth century and was built above an ancient temple of the goddess Isis.  This Church was designed to reproduce the place where Christ's remains were deposited after his death.

Mosaics from the ancient temple

Courtyard of Pilato and the beautiful medieval cloister

Passageway between churches which was not there is earlier times (the Churches were in competition with each other and had different congregations)

Second courtyard in the complex

Jason pointed out that some of the porticoes rested on four different and narrow posts rather than a single 

      column as they ran out of the larger columns and had to find substitutes.

Single column

We then made a stop at the Two Towers.

Back to Le Due Tori (Two Towers)--- competition between two families - one can walk up the Asinelli tower (the tall one); 498 steps up a very narrow staircase (we are skipping this).

We had been told that if we saw anyone with a crown of leaves that they had just graduated from the University.

Grad out for a celebration

Our final stop was the food shops in the Quadrilatero District near Piazza Maggiore, where Jason pointed out a few of the best shops.  We knew most of them through our own experience and the Delicious Food Tour.

Mortadella packaged to travel at Simoni

Artichokes at the front left

We were very happy with the "Free Tour".  There were only three other people which made for a very pleasant experience.  Jason knew the history of Bologna and told it well.  We discovered a number of places that we had not run into or even read about. 

After the tour ended at 12: 30 p.m., Alonso and I headed to a nearby recommended restaurant for lunch, stopping first at Atti bakery and pasta shop for some bread and treats.

Passing a few fish stalls that hadn't been open on Monday

Crostata at Atti bakery and pasta store.  We picked up some bread and a few treats here.

We then went to Sfoglia Rina for lunch.  Mattia from the food tour as well as other folks had said that this is one of the restaurants to go to for fresh pasta.  There was a small line-up as it was prime lunch hour (about 1:15 p.m. when we got there).  A mix of locals and tourists.  We waited in the sun and then were seated.

Line up on the left-- It says Pasta Fresca on the windows

Digging in-- menu on the board- lots of daily specials

Alonso with his pappardelle with duck ragù and sage

With our lunch-- at a communal table-- I had a huge bowl of tortellini in brodo.
We both were given a side dish with some sweet potatoes (came with the meal)

Kitchen off one of the back rooms

Serving home-made pasta at the front of the restaurant

It was a great lunch.  The fresh pasta is SO good and the sauces all very interesting.  

We stopped by Tamburini, another salumeria to check out the meats, cheeses and condiments.  Jason, our tour guide had said that if one wanted condiments to bring back from Bologna, this was one of the best places to pick them up.  Friends had also recommended Taburini to us.  It was a bit overwhelming but fabulous.  The deli has been open since 1932 and has a few tables outside for dining.

Food, glorious food

We wandered some more and then went for a coffee at Caffè Gamborini.  We sat outside in the sun before heading back to the apartment.  We started noticing the different ceiling and lighting in the porticoes as we walked back.

Vaulted ceiling and one type of flooring and lighting

A totally different look in the next block

Another great day in Bologna.  We decided that after our large lunch, we would have a light dinner.  Alonso cooked the artichokes and we had a charcuterie plate and treats for dessert.

Do not miss visiting this city!!  It is a transportation hub and it is easy to get to Milan, Florence, Venice, Rome and Naples by fast trains from Bologna.  The food really is as spectacular as everyone says.  Plus it is a beautiful city with many sights.