Truffling in Alba! A total food and wine day.

Unbelievable- another very warm 23C day on Sunday October 16.   We decided to go for coffee and a croissant in the late morning at Caffè Teatro.   We had tickets to the International White Truffle Fair for 1:30 p.m., so had some time to wander.

Looking down from our balcony onto our very quiet street

Two minutes away around the corner in Piazza Michele Ferrero was a total surprise.  There were around 20 vendors with fabulous regional food products.  A few stores on Via Vittorio Emanuele II (the Main Street) had stalls, but most vendors were from the surrounding countryside.  It's almost too bad we aren't staying in Alba longer or we would have been buying some of the fabulous meats and cheeses. There were also lots of truffle products and mushrooms available.  WOW!  We did a tour around the square, checking out the goodies.

Salame al Barolo and cheeses

Funghi-- amazing

Fresh pasta

Salami artigianale

Great sign-- bagna càuda is made from garlic, anchovies and olive oil,
originating in Piedmont in the16th century

Truffle oils and other treats

Hazelnuts from Piedmont

We stopped at a place selling bomboloni -- Italian filled doughnuts.  Alonso had a chocolate bombolone.

Plain bomboloni

Injecting the chocolate filling

Alonso with his bombolone with chocolate


More regional cheeses- some from nearby Bra (home of Slow Food)


Gorgeous salami 

After our tour of the Piazza, we headed up Via Vittorio Emanuele II.  Just people, no flea market on Sundays.
Heading up Via Vittorio Emanuele II

We walked down a side street and into the small square where Caffè Teatro is located and finally discovered what the hay was for.  There are all sorts of vendors out in the streets on Sundays during October and November. The hay is used as a barrier around different event locations.

Wood fired oven--- making focaccia for sandwiches

Looked very good too- but a bit too early for us to eat

Wine kegs-- folks were already carrying wine bottles and glasses in the streets at about noon

We finally made our way to Caffè Teatro.  I had a wonderful vegan croissant and we both had coffee.  So nice sitting in the warm sun.
I'm wearing my Psycho Bunny T-shirt today

Even a beer vendor in the square

We went back to the apartment to drop a few purchases and then headed to the Truffle Fair.  

Time for Truffles

The Truffle fair was in a small square with an open tented area and additional booths around the tent.  We had entry tickets and tickets for two glasses of wine each.  In the centre of the tent, was the Alba White Truffle World Market where one could purchase truffles from the participating sellers (Trifulau or traders) under the supervision of the Quality Commission.  There is a very strict protocol for the selection of the truffles on sale.   Around the central section, there were a number of vendors selling local food products and wines.

Local products

Truffles under glass

Truffle vendor

Very pricey---- up to 450 euros for the large white truffles

The very specialised truffle vendors in the centre of the tent

Vendors around the centre selling more than just truffles

In the following picture, one can see the central truffle sellers, and the wine sellers' booths in the background.

Central truffle people with wine booths outside the tent

One of our wine tickets was for a glass of either Barbera d'Alba or Dolcetto d'Alba.  The other ticket was for a wine of our choice.  We chose the Barbera for our first glasses.

Pouring our wine--- There were small but manageable line ups at the wine booths 
where tickets could be redeemed.

Beside the booths where one could redeem the wine tickets were a number of wine vendors.  It turned out that they were all offering wines which could be tasted as well as purchased.  We had a few tastings of some very nice wines.
One vendor

Great labels from a winery near Asti

For our second wine ticket, I got a different Barbera d'Alba and Alonso decided to try a Barolo.
Both were very nice.
Barolo for Alonso

Alonso with the wine glass and carrier we were provided with at the entrance- great idea - however, we will leave our glasses at the Airbnb

As we were leaving the festival, there was an area where people were ordering from a small menu and eating at some tables.  We watched a cook prepare fried eggs with shaved black truffles.  This is another Piedmont specialty.  He cooked the eggs on low heat with a cover for around 5 minutes and then plated them and shaved the truffle on top.

Shaving the black truffles on the eggs

The menu had eggs with shaved black truffles for 18 euros and with white truffles- 44 euros!  Yikes!!


After the Truffle Fair, we headed back to Via Vittorio Emanuele II.

Back on the Main Street

We stopped at a wonderful chocolate shop where they sell our favourite chocolates from Torino.  A purchase was made.  
Great chocolate shop on the main street-- open on Sundays during October and November

We headed to Monviso Coffee Factory for a coffee and bruschetta.

On Friday, the coffee shop was almost empty-
on Sunday it was very busy- outside, inside and the small garden was full

We got the last table inside- not far from the entrance.

For some reason there was an old phone on our table.  I'm not sure when Alonso was talking to.

Great bag

Alonso (aka Psycho Bunny) with his macchiato 

Looking back in - we sat at the now empty table-- very nice Barista

We walked up to Piazza Risorgimento where we had seen the hay the other day.  A number of elaborate structures were created for a variety of games.  There was a corner for darts!

Playing darts

There was an area where people were "fishing" for wine bottles.  Lots of folks trying their luck and lots of people watching.
Fishing for wine. (Cathedral in the background)

The crowd in the Piazza

Roasted Pig Face!

Grape guy in an adjoining Piazza

A restaurant's menu--- regular tajarin (egg ribbon) pasta with ragù di Barolo is 12 euros (a very common price); with black truffles it is 30 euros and with white truffles 45 euros!!

The last stop of our "food" day was La Romana, a gelato store around the corner from our apartment that was very busy on a warm Sunday afternoon. It has been around since 1947 and is one of the best in Alba.

"We do the best job in the world"

Alonso had pistacchio and chocolate

We went back to the apartment just before 6:00 p.m.

Just unlocking the door to our apartment-- great balcony

One more photo from the balcony

Arrivederci Alba!

On Monday October 17, we will take the bus to Asti and then catch a train to Genoa (Genova in Italian). There is no direct train from Alba, but the bus stop in Asti is just a minute walk from the train station. We will arrive in Genova at around 1:30 p.m.  We have enjoyed our time in Alba.  It really is a "Creative City of Gastronomy" as designated by UNESCO in 2017.  It is a wonderful compact, beautiful small town to visit for a few days.  Highly recommended!!


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