Arriving in Genova

Monday October 17 turned into a very warm sunny day with a high of 24C. We said goodbye to Alba, and took the 10:03 bus to Asti. We then had a bit of time before our train to Genoa (Genova in Italian). We had a pleasant coffee at a caffè near the train station. We caught the 12:03 train, which arrived in Genova at 1:35 p.m. The train was not full and we had four seats to ourselves. The trip went very fast.

Stopping for a coffee at Caffè Capolinea near the Train Station in Asti

Alonso waiting for the coffee--a very nice day in Asti

We arrived at Genova's main train station at 1:35. It was very warm and sunny and we immediately shed our leather jackets.

Very large and busy station

A very facts about Genova. It is Italy's oldest continually inhabited city, and was once the richest city of the world. It was the maritime capital of the world for over 700 years from the 11th century to 1798. It has one of the largest medieval old towns in Europe. There is a blend of medieval, Renaissance and baroque buildings. The current population is about 675, 000. Genova is also famous for its focaccia (eaten at any time of the day), fresh seafood and pesto!!

Genova was the birthplace of Christopher Columbus (1451) - still revered here.

Large statue of Christopher Columbus not far from the train staton

Our Airbnb is located in the old part of the city. We had to wait until 3:30 p.m. to meet our host at the apartment as she was at work.

Barbara, our host, had suggested we walk to the Port and go to Friggitoria San Giorgio for some typical street food. We headed down one of the narrow streets, known as caruggi.

We walked down a very long narrow street - very old- with tiny stores and fruit stands

The port-- the boat in the photo is a replica of a pirate ship

We got to Friggatoria San Giorgio, a tiny stall with very good fried fish and vegetables. We chose fresh fried squid and some fried vegetables. Both came with some chick-pea fries, a Genoese specialty.

Very helpful cook

Outside of the Friggitoria

Alonso with the food-- both were quite large portions

We sat in a very large square on the Port and had our lunch.

Delicious street food

View of the buildings on Piazza Caricamento

Building near the Tourist office on the Piazza

We discovered that Genova did not have a "free tour" (ie pay with tips) as most European cities now have. Instead, there are signs all over the city with proposed self-directed walks in the City.

Self-directed walks in Genova- lots to see

We went to meet our host, Barbara, at the apartment at 3:30 p.m. We found the tiny Vico without too much trouble, but finding the number was a challenge. There were clearly two different numbering systems on the street. Luckily, we called Barbara and she met us outside at the tiny square in the middle of the street. It turned out #11 was a half a block past #9. The apartment building dates back to the 16th century. However, the inside of the apartment has been totally renovated with lots of amenities. We are on the first floor (Canadian second).

We discovered that this is one of the streets that was part of the Jewish ghetto between 1660 and 1674. The ghetto was allocated to the houses in the area comprising the street Vico del Campo (formerly Vico deli Ebrei) and several side streets such as Vico des Fregoso (where our apartment is located!) and Vico Untoria, on the corner which the synagogue is believed to have stood. This was a fairly convenient area for its proximity to the port. The ghetto was moved to another area in the city in 1674.

Looking into the kitchen - large fridge, dishwasher, microwave and gas stove top

Bedroom - with area for luggage to the right of the photo

Large modern bathroom with shower and brand new very fancy washing machine

Another desk in the hallway leading to the kitchen and bedroom-- lots of lighting in the apartment

We are in the apartment in the yellow building with the dark green shutters

We walked down a tiny street to a wider street with a lots of shops.

Two pasticcerias at the corner

We picked up some famous amaretti de Voltaggio

Boxes of amaretti in the window

Lots of small fruit stores on the streets

We walked up to Via Garibaldi, one of the most important streets in Genova.

We turned down a street before this tunnel

Via Garibaldi (formerly known as Strada Nuova (New Street)) contains many of the large homes known collectively as the Palazzi des Rolli of which 42 of the 106 palaces were included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2006. At the time of the ancient Republic of Genova, the Rolli were lists of the richest Genoese families' mansions. From these lists, the palaces that would have the honour of hosting important foreign dignitaries during State visits were drawn by lot! Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Tursi are now part of the Strada Nuova Museums.

The start of many Palazzos

Sign for an exhibit at Palazzo della Meridiana

Palazzo della Meridiana

List of Palazzos on Via Garibaldi -- side by side down the street

One of Palazzos turned into a museum

As we walked along Via Garibaldi, we would peer down the narrow streets with buildings covered in Graffiti. Such a contrast!

Peering down a side street from Via Garibaldi

Municipal Offices

View of street

Every building on Via Garibaldi was incredible

Detail about the UNESCO designation

Poster for exhibit at Palazzo of Nicolosio Lomellino

We walked inside the courtyard

Architects office in the same courtyard

Leaving the building-- beautiful frescoes

As we walked along the street, we noticed that most of the Palazzos had a number with signage for a Rubens in Genova network. There is also a major Rubens Genova exhibit at the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace) in another part of the city that we plan on visiting. It tells the story of the relationship between Peter Paul Rubens and the City of Genova which he visited many times.

Signage outside the Palazzo Nicolosio Lomillino

Palazzo Angelo Giovanni Spinola

Now a Deutsche Bank--- unbelievable inside

Detail

Again, peering down the very steep side streets which eventually lead to the Port

Another Palazzo that we peered through the windows at

Go for Baroque!

Murals on the facade of the building

We walked to the end of Via Garibaldi and then headed to another area of town

The mix of architecture is amazing

We walked to a very large sqaure- Piazza de Ferrari. At the top end was the Teatro Carlo Felice- the Opera House.

Side of the Teatro

Imposing front

We decided to have an aperitivo at the Caffè del Teatro which was located beside the Teatro.

Lovely patio

They had a large selection of Spritz.

The Spritz came with a 2 euro plate of savoury treats

Alonso had a Passion Fruit Spritz. I had originally ordered a Cynar Spritz but the server brought me a Summer Spritz by mistake. I went with that, as it had lovely mixed fruit and it really was summer weather here- 22C at around 6:30 p.m.

Our drinks

We headed back, passing the statue of Niccolo Paganini (1782-1840) in front of the Teatro Carlo Felice. Paganini was born in Genova. One of his violins is exhibited at the Palazzo Doria-Tursi in Genova.